What a beautiful morning. Sunshine
sparkling off the snow capped peaks and it is so nice to see a clear
blue sky rather than the often murky blue we see in London. So many
great views that it was difficult to know where to point the camera
first.
Our first day at Chateu D'oex ( said as
'Day') and we had already decided not to go on the excursion to
cheese and chocolate factories rather we wanted to explore the town.
Everywhere we looked the houses are beautifully decorated in the
traditional style and nowhere did we see any neglected proprieties.
Even a new build showed signs of being done in the traditional
manner.
All the window have shutters, and the
large houses have balconies. Their fronts decorated with cut outs of
trees and animal shapes reflecting the county life. The houses all
have very large overhanging roofs and many of the walls under these
were tastefully decorated with old wooden skis and sleds. I can
imagine how pretty they must have looked in past times being pulled
through the snow their bells jingling and well rugged up children
shouting and laughing as they went.
Our walk took us quite high above the
town and close to what we thought was a small dairy farm. Our noses
confirmed this as we got closer, well all that manure was probably
fresh feed yesterday, lol. I spotted Mr Farmer coming out of the
barn and we stopped to talk to him. We were able to see inside the
barn where his 32 contented cows spend a lot of the year. It was
amusing to see their tails held up on pieces of twine to prevent them
from being covered in the brown stuff. In our very fractured French
we were able to find out that Mr Farmer's name was Phillipe and his
main crop was not milk but cheese. Still made in the traditional
style. We even bought a small slice from him. With the help of his
daughter on the other end of the phone he invited us to go with him,
a bit later in the afternoon, to see where the rounds of cheese go
after he makes them.
The drive up to what we later learned
was a cooperative was a bit hair raising, these guys drive on the
other side of the road and how scary is that to see a large truck
looming up apparently on the wrong side of the road. Phew.
At the cooperative he introduced us to
a staff member who spoke very good English and she gave us an
individual tour. Seems there are lots of local small dairy farmers
who make traditional cheese and then bring it to the Cave du fromage
where it is cured in brine and then carefully tended for up to
several months or even years. Initially each round of cheese is
turned and wiped over with salt water every day, later it is once
week or so. Now this is done by robot but imagine having to do all
this by hand to thousands of rounds of cheese that weigh 33 – 35
kilo each. Wouldn't need to go to the gym, Each summer the farmers
take their small herds up to the higher pastures, each cow hung with
its own bell. Up there the animals spend the day grazing, and are
called in at night. Nothing skittish about these beasts unlike the
huge herd at home. Unfortunately the income from the sale of cheeses
is not always enough to support the family so Mr and Mrs farmer work
in the village during the winter.
On the drive back into town we were
impressed by the steep sided ravine, sheer faces rising skyward at
least 1000metres with the road precariously etched into the
side..Picture postcard perfect views around every corner.
Back in the town our next visit was to
the museum. With the displays all labelled in French it was
interesting to try to work out what things were for. Mostly we
thought we had done a good job until coming across a blue and white
tiled square shape about a metre and a half high in one of the rooms
that had us scratching our heads.
There was an aha moment when the
curator told is what it was for. On the other side of the wall most
likely would have been the kitchen. Inside this shape a firebox
heated the tiles which would then radiate heat during the night and
keep the room cosy and warm.